Wandering Wheels: Day 70 - Lago Epuyen to El Bolson

Leaving camp

Had a great nights sleep in our little cabin and woke to a clear blue sky and no wind! Had a steep climb up a dirt track out of Lago Epuyen and had a great view of the local green kingfisher (3x size of ours) sat on a overhead cable. When we reached the main road it was smooth, gently undulating and even had a coach avoidance strip down the side so we didn’t have to keep checking our mirrors. We had plenty of time to look up and enjoy beautiful views of wooded hillsides, green valleys and glimpses of snow still lingering on the highest mountains. It was an effortless ride and before we knew it we were cycling through El Hoyo looking for a place to have a coffee. We didn’t pass a single Café and eventually stopped at a roadside restaurant on the way out. Despite looking exhausted and in desperate need of sustenance (hamming it up just in case the owner stood in the doorway was in any doubt), we were turned away as they only served food! Mmmmm, perhaps we didn’t tick his boxes. We strutted away (suddenly revived) and cycled up the hill, stopping 2 miles further on, outside ‘Posada de Olaf’ which looked very inviting. Despite the restaurant not being open the waiter went to speak to his boss and within 15 minutes they had rigged up a table and chairs under decorative arbor on the front lawn and brought us out fresh coffee and a late breakfast of local organic jams (dulces), bread and toast. There was no menu just an offering of food they thought we might enjoy. At one point there were 3 people around the table; one bringing out and brushing down some plastic chairs, another brushing leaves off the table and laying out a tablecloth and another patiently waiting with the tray loaded with goodies. Our mood was instantly transformed and we enjoyed a fantastic breakfast and delicious coffee. Fantastic hospitality resumed! The route from Epuyen to El Bolson passed through the one of the biggest fruit growing areas in Argentina with the road lined with co-operative fruit growers, market gardens and nearly every house offering ‘dulces’ for sale. When we read the papers later that week we learnt the woods there were also lined with marijhuana, discovered during armed raids! On reaching El Bolson we decided to pass through as it seemed suprisingly touristy, very busy and full of parked cars competing to play the loudest reggae music. On the road out we spotted a quiet cabana and enjoyed some home cooking with lots of much needed vegetables.