Had another fantastic breakfast and set off up the road on a still and sunny day with great views of the volcano. The views along the way were the most beautiful and dramatic so far. Lush flower filled meadows, woodland and snow capped volcanoes. The road was gently undulating and cycling seemed to be effortless, so we must have had a slight tail wind as well! The bird life was equally as impressive. White tailed eagles, numerous birds of prey we could not identify, ibis, colourful southern plovers, parakeets and lots of multi-coloured small birds! We need to buy a bird guide! The trees along the road were mainly mature Eucalyptus but we also passed woods of Nothofagus with a huge variety of wild flowers growing along the fringe. After 40km we arrived at a small town called Curarrehue where we stopped for ice cream and a coffee at a petrol station restaurant. This time the coffee arrived in a big tin and another even larger tin of powdered milk. We added both to our cups and a lady arrived with a flask of hot water and poured a small amount in and waited whilst we stirred it to a smooth paste before she topped it up. It was still very lumpy and probably the first coffee we’ve had which involved chewing! We expected the dirt road to start here but a new road had been built and we continued along smooth tarmac (still very little climbing!) for another 10km. The scenery just kept getting better with views of new volcanoes emerging and a crystal clean river running over pale rocks beneath trees covered in a lichens. We kept stopping to take photos, look at birds and just gawp at our surroundings. At 50km the paved road ended and instead of hitting the original dirt track, we cycled along the base of a road under construction. This mainly comprised of loose stone which was incredibly difficult to gain any traction on. The long expected gradient arrived at the same time and we toiled under the sun, stopping in any shade to drink and catch our breath. It took nearly 1 ½ hours to complete the final 11km to the campsite at the Puesco ranger station. We knocked at the door of an adjacent cabin a few times and eventually had to wander around the side and poke a head through a window from which the sounds of a sneezing man could be heard. He said there was no camping and the nearest camp was either back in Pucon or over the border in Argentina! We pointed at the camping tariff sign next to him and asked if we could camp here instead?! He mentioned something about a friend and a lack of toilet facilities still shaking his head. We nodded ours and looked eager and he eventually pointed to a picnic area hidden in the woods behind. We wheeled our bikes down to a secluded spot next to the river where there was another tent! Spent the late afternoon filtering water and bathing in a beautiful river. A black horse appeared and grazed in a clearing opposite…it was all very Disney…we half expected Bambi to come frolicking into view! Had a very peaceful nights sleep listening to the river and various night time birds. The best day so far.
